A Journey North

Flowerpot Island

by Marti Uher

I have always loved the Bruce Peninsula. Perhaps this is due in part to fond childhood memories of taking summer trips along the shores of Lake Huron with the destination being Tobermory or a ferry crossing to Manitoulin Island. My grandparents, from Holland, would make a biannual trip to Canada and invariably we would end up in the north as my father wanted to proudly show them the rural landscape of where he had settled as an immigrant farmer. Though my father’s initial struggles to settle the land along the shores of Lake Huron, near Goderich, were fraught with long hours working in the salt mine, and running a 100 acre farm, he somehow always made a little time to appease that adventurous spirit that he had. He couldn’t wait to head north with kids and in-laws in tow.

I am my father’s daughter and that adventurous spirit and love for the north he unwittingly passed on to me. When I saw Rob Muylwyk’s trip to Flowerpot Island posted in Qayaq, I signed up once again as I have in previous years. A chance to head to the Bruce evokes those passions of the north in me brought on by the wonderful feelings and memories from days gone by.

I dutifully checked the weather reports all week prior to the trip and after a rainy and wet weekend on a previous GLSKA trip to Beausoleil Island, marvelled at the fair weather reports for the weekend to come. Rob Muylwyk, Carla Rienzo, Grant Mckeich, Bob Casement and I met at Dunk’s Bay on Friday morning under glorious, sunny skies, light winds and calm waters.

We quickly made the 6-kilometre crossing to Flowerpot Island which is part of Fathom Five Marine Park. Fathom Five is Canada’s first National Marine Conservation Area. It includes 22 shipwrecks and several historic lightstations that entice scuba divers and kayakers alike. The islands are rugged and the deep waters sparkling. Anyone who has taken a trip to the Carribean makes a connection to the water which appears to have the same enticing rich blue and green hue.

Island CampsiteFlowerpot Island is famous for the two rock pillars (sea stacks) along its eastern shoreline. There are well marked trails that cover the eastern half of the island and six campsites available to those who come by boat or by kayak. We landed before lunch and set up tents on the platforms available to us. It was great fun trying to balance across the large boulders strewn about while avoiding the water snakes that were very prevalent among the rocks. Though I don’t harbour ill will towards snakes or have a snake phobia it was nonetheless somewhat unnerving to be moving about with snakes crawling among shoes and trying to slither up pant legs. Those of you who are faint of heart at the sight of snakes might be best to avoid this trip at this time of year. I couldn’t help chuckling as I thought about a previous year’s trip which was less about avoiding snakes and more about avoiding frisky and determined squirrels that were brazen enough to steal food right from your hand if you weren’t looking.

Once settled in with tent in place, camp gear sorted out, and satiated stomachs, we headed off for a paddle to Bears Rump Island. This island is situated just 3 kilometres to the east of Flowerpot and may be visited as a day-trip. The area has overhanging cliffs and terraced cobble beaches and cedar trees that are approximately 1200 years old. We enjoyed a lovely walk along the shoreline while discussing our own creative versions of how the name Bears Rump came to be given to the island.

We headed back from Bears Rump circumnavigating Flowerpot Island to enjoy “cocktail” hour as Rob would say. We whiled away the evening hours with silly, nonsensical conversations rich with laughter, and then made our way to our tents for restful night under a still and starry sky.

Calypso OrchidLate Friday evening we were joined by the other paddlers: Gerry and Christina Croney and Jim Fitton. On Saturday morning we went for a lovely hike down the well trodden trails in search of the orchids. This area is a botanist’s delight with ferns, mosses and orchids. It is well worth the hike. Botanists or not, we enjoyed sightings of four orchids, Calypso, otherwise known as the Fairy Slipper, Menzies’ Rattlesnake Plantain, striped Coralroot and Round Leaf Orchid. Apparently there are 44 species of orchids that grow on the Bruce Peninsula and their exact bloom dates depend on the weather conditions. A unique location is needed by the wild orchids and the Bruce has the ability to sustain this delicate flower because of its rich, specific and diverse habitat.

We returned and resumed our paddling excursions. We packed a lunch and headed off to explore the shore line of Echo Island and the lightstation at the northern point of Cove Island. We had a lovely afternoon paddle and landed at the Cove Island Lighthouse which is one of only six Imperial Tower lightstations on the Great Lakes. It was built in 1858 and makes an enjoyable stopover for a picnic lunch. It was a great experience to be twice passed by, by the Chi-Cheemaun, though it’s never quite as large as I remember from childhood memories.

In the afternoon, all the paddlers joined together to sit amongst the rocks and to share in the camaraderie that a group of paddlers can do so well. There was lots of laughter in the warmth of the late afternoon sun. After supper, we headed out on the trails to the north and east of the island to take in a glorious sunset and an evening walk among the flowerpots.

On Sunday, some members made their way home to the reality and commitments of daily life and work, while others of us paddled a calm, 14-kilometre, open-water crossing to Stormhaven which is a backcountry campsite belonging to the Bruce National Park. One can hike to it via the rugged Bruce Trail or paddle in as we did. The paddle among the caves and cliffs of this escarpment never ceases to be awe inspiring no matter how many trips I’ve made there. Stormhaven makes an excellent place to camp and it also makes a wonderful stopover for lunch. The beach is rocky with giant slabs of stone, some as big as a vehicle.

From Stormhaven we made our way west along the rugged coastline enjoying paddling in and amongst some of the caves. We made our way to the Grotto, an intricately carved and rocky shoreline which is a point of interest for many day hikers, paddlers and scuba divers. Finally, we paddled the afternoon away to stronger, west winds which kicked up some nice waves. We landed back ashore in Dunk’s Bay, unloaded boats and gear and made our way to Tobermory to enjoy a coffee for the caffeine starved among us.

We entertained the idea of having a fine meal at any one of the quaint restaurants in Tobermory, but when Rob invited us to his place for a meal we couldn’t resist; plus it finally gave us a chance to see his new country home. We had a delicious meal of burgers and fries, just the thing after a weekend of paddling. We ate on the north deck with a view of Colpoy’s Bay, and watched the sun go down. I know I honour the sentiments of the group when we once again thank Rob for organizing the trip and thanks to him and his wife Iet for the invitation to their lovely home.

To those of you who have never experienced or truly explored the rugged beauty of this Ontario paradise, let not my words entice you there, but rather the land and the waters themselves. Perhaps you too have a favourite northern destination brought on by your own memories of days gone by, as I have with the Bruce Peninsula.

Cove Island Lighthouse

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